and I am confident I shall be both challenged and enchanted.
And where are we going?
To Mongolia,
to the Altai Mountains,
via Beijing, Ulambataar….
Add to that the flight from
Melbourne to Biejing
You can see it is a Long Way.
The Altai Mountains are in the north west of Mongolia and the Britanica states :
The Altai mountains are a complex system extending approx. 2000km from the Gobi Desert, through the Western Siberian Plain, through China, Mongolia, Russia and Kazakhstan.
The name comes from Turkic-Mongolian Altan meaning Golden.
Okay, enough words about the geography.
How about the weather?
Right now in Melbourne we are sweltering in temperatures of 39-40 ‘C.
Yes Celsius.
We are living in semi darkness trying to keep the heat/light out.
The kids (and dog) have moved into the living room –
it being marginally cooler than their back room.
And ME?
I am navigating the thought of -23’ Celsius –
yup, that Is Minus!!!!!
The mind is baulking at having to think of such cold weather
when we can barely move from the heat…….
But navigate I must…..
Thankfully not the way to UB (Ulambataar)
Air China will do that,
but round the idea of cold, cold, cold.
Sharing accommodation, (which is common when I travel), is one thing –
the added dimension of such cold makes me wonder if we will be sharing body heat too 😉 if you get what I mean.
So I found a thermorest I last used in 2001 in Nepal (long before blogging 😂) ; does it still work, am I too old to sleep on it ;
will it keep some of the cold off?
So, just like trial packing, I have done a few trial sleeps. 😉
Seems okay. 🥰
And now to the “BIG REVEAL”
I am still pinching myself at this opportunity.
I am not going on a tourist trip to Mongolia,
where we ride around on ‘tourist horses’
seeing the ‘tourist’ things.
That would be great, I have no doubt,
but often leaves one feeling a little like a voyeur,
It all began with Mongolia – with friends – June/July this year.
Impending Nanna duties put an end to that and left us with the question;
now what?
Well why not cross the Andes?
I mean, really. Why not?
Only for experienced riders and I’ve been riding for five years –
makes me experienced?
Just across the ditch… the BIG ditch…. The Pacific Ocean.
So far away that doesn’t fit in one photo –
you can barely see New Zealand!!!
The plan was to follow the route taken in 1817 by José de San Martín, and his army from Argentina to Chile,
The plan for us was to get our visas, and book our flights and beg, borrow or steal the funds.
Little did we know that last would be the least of our concerns!
The visa application required return flights to be already booked.
On the other hand we were advised Not to book flights till we had visas and so the circle began……a story for another day.
But a story, it was.
The very unattractive, but very important visa
And just like that –
we were ‘off’ so to speak;
or at least at Melbourne Airport,
waiting to be ‘off’
And there we were: three Intrepid Australians set off….. (well two in the photo – and me 😜)
We flew from Melbourne to Auckland
Auckland to Santiago. Santiago to Mendoza.
With our trusty 7kg luggage –
determined we were not to have any
‘lost luggage’
All the EnthusiamBefore the flightStill bouyed by…The power of travelling lightJust wasn’t enoughTo keep us going Through interminable flights, terminalsAnd views…..
Until at last Mendoza it was,
Some food, a rain storm and lots of alcohol
Mendoza – where it all begins, at least officially.
Mendoza where Jose de San Martin began his extraordinary expedition to liberate Chile from the Spanish. With an army of 6 000 soldiers , 4000 cattle and unnumbered horses. They took 21 days to reach the outskirts of Santiago. There are various accounts of the numbers and losses, but suffice to say the losses of both horses and men was very large.
The expedition is often compared to Hannibal’s or Napoleon’s crossing of the Alps
And so, of course that is where we began; exploring the city; meeting the crew; getting last minute hats, sweets, and creating new memories.
Architecture Mendoza styleBreakfast Mendoza styleMuseum Mendoza style (closed)Ice cream Mendoza sizeLunch Mendoza style (3pm)The crew with two still to arrive.
We may have been a much smaller ‘army’ than Jose San Martin had, but the preparation was anything but ‘small’
Lunch along the wayWaves along the wayChecking of baggage too
Eleven riders, eleven ‘gauchos’ two guides, and a whole ‘heap’ of mules to carry everything, except us.
These amazing, ever patient animals were our lifeline. Every day, everything we needed was packed on to their backs with a complex roping system that left us all in awe of both the gaucho’s skill and the mule’s patience.
We, on the other hand were spared the indignity of being tied onto our mules/horses -although there were passes we rode that had us wishing we were tied onto our horses, and some would happily have had their heads covered too!-
Instead we were expected to climb elegantly into the saddle.
Climb we did, elegantly is quite another issue!
But I jump ahead
(as usual my stories are all over the place, both literally And figuratively) –
Our first night together with our horses, mules, tiny two man tents (really? – Pygmy man maybe) last half civilised toilet, delicious chicken stew and gauchos.
Not to mention the scrawniest roosters I have ever seen.
Actually, I do mention them because they decided dawn was at 4 am and let us all know, in no uncertain tones.
Sunsets and new friends….Visitors and MateaOur first campsitePretty as a pictureLas HorniallsPreparations, preparations
The first night, not perhaps our best night, or perhaps a portend of what was to come.
SAN Juan References everywhereAs we explored……
Off we went, full of energy and empty of knowledge of what to expect.
What we found were views…..That took our breath away.
As we travelled across the black pampa; the plains of Manantiales; Vega Larga; Valle de los Patos; Valle Hermosa; crossed the Argentina/Chile border; La Vegas Del: Laguinitas: La Colorado; Matten Bonito and who knows where else 😂
I certainly cannot find them listed on a map and perhaps more worrying, the tour organisers did not have a map!!!!! But then, I guess, nor did Juan San Martin and he crossed them – so we should have felt some comfort with that knowledge.
But plough on we did…. As you will see…..
The scale of…The colours we sawThe ruggednessIt is impossible to describeThe variety…..
We crossed the Andes, we were high, very high.
Surrounded by mountains; Mercedario (6 700m); Aconcagua (6 960m)
We crossed the Passo del Espsinacito (4 400m); Cordon Limitrofe & La Colorado (both 3 500m)
We were out of breathe, we had nose bleeds, headaches, I even lost my appetite.
And our poot horses did not fare much better; some of them would go 20 m. and stop to catch their breathe; their sides heaving from the effort.
It was really difficult to get Photos that captured some of the Scale and steepness of the ride
We watched in awe as the guanacos – local ‘llama like’ animal which believe it or not is related to the camel- raced across the face of the steep cliffs as if they had glue on their feet.
Little did we know that we too, would be, well not quite ‘racing’ but certainly traversing just such tracks. As our lovely Devon reminded us as we sheepishly navigated the tiny track, in her large Texan voice
“We are the guanacos”
It brought a smile to what had been tense faces filled with concentration and in many cases anxiety.
Another not great shot of concentrationIt was either up up & up; or down down & down
And through it all, our reliable,
faithful leader Ramon
and his equally fabulous mule;
watched, encouraged and guided us all.
While his equally faithful, reliable and sturdy mules
carried supported us every step of the way.
Either going on ahead or following us; but always meeting us.
Ever faithfulCarrying our ‘everything’ – note our 7kg black bags 😂whatever was askedOf them they did 😍
There were tears of exhaustion
There were tears of joy
There was so much to celebrate
There were moments of rest…..There were moments of contemplationThere were moments of separatenessThere were moments of studyThere were moments of togethernessThere were moments of madness 😂
And many moments of friendship
The AussiesPlus new friendsLinked forever by this experience
Often round ‘the table’
A week of carrying food stretched supplies……But still it tasted good