Always Steer:

We all know this applies to life,

but

did you know it applies to your horse as well 🙄🤪

I was going to show you the result of failing to steer –

but it was so unpretty it will have the website shut down

if I show you 😂

Suffice to say, on the third day,

finding myself flat on my back,

with the horse I was supposed to be bonding with,

nowhere to be seen 🙄

I realised I had to steer my Schnapps,

particularly when galloping!!!!

My horse – Schnapps (ginger mare 😉)

It all began with an invite from a friend to join her on the

https://www.namibiahorsesafari.com/namibdesertsafari

“toughest, hardest, fastest commercial ride on the planet,

This is a Challenging safari; suits experienced riders”

to quote the ‘blurb’

Some context of where we were going:

Namibia;

close to home, but then again, not so close.

To be more precise, from just outside Windhoek

(Windy corner),

to the west coast town of Swakopmund

(mouth of the Swakop river)

And what does Swakop mean, do I hear you ask?

You sure you want to know?

I quote:

Swakop” in Swakopmund is derived from the Nama word “Tsoakhaub,” which translates to “excrement opening” or “anus,” referring to the Swakop River’s tendency to carry debris, including dead animals, into the Atlantic Ocean during floods.

Right, now that we have cleared that up. 🤪

Approximately 320 km give or take, over 8 days, or 7 if you consider we walked for most of one day.

But hey, let’s just say – a long way.

Why did I ever think I could do this ride?

Well actually I didn’t think I could.

Namibia Horse Safaris thought I could.

So there you have it.

I paid my not small fee, booked the flights

stopped for moral support, hugs and good food ‘at home’

to sustain me for the adventure ahead.

And just like that, a short flight to Windhoek to reunite with ‘old’ friends and make new ones.

A day wandering round Windhoek brought back memories of ‘before horses’ 😆

Food, lots of food;

views to take your breathe away

There was history, relegated to the ‘back rooms’; not a happy past.

There were modern new skyscrapers that I did not photograph, but I assure you they look like modern skyscrapers the world over.

and of course, shopping

I was so focussed on surviving the upcoming ride, I did not have a blog/story in mind so was not ‘geared’ for this – apologies 😆. If you know me and writing, you will have some idea of how nervous I was about the ride – no writing!)

And just to drag out the misery, we had a half day to play –

well it was fun, but the horses will still ‘looming’

Fun it was : the UNESCO site

Slogging up Dune 45

And sliding with great joy down again

It was SO beautiful

These are the images most have of the Namib Desert, dunes, colour, sand and all the tiny beetles and things we saw as we walked around.

But there is another kind of desert,

as we soon discovered, barren, flat, dusty desert and in our case,

after the first rains in tens of years, covered in a fine grass.

There were three ‘crews’ on this trip:

Guests, from USA, Australia, France, UK, Botswana and Canada.

The crew, without whom nothing would happen.

and then, of course, the Rockstars of the entire affair ;

THE HORSES.

guests
Making the most of the German beers
Amazing desert
Incredible views (yes, her too)

Loving life, whether bums in the saddle, or in a seat

There were celebrations to be had, horses to be ridden

Tummies to be fed, both ours and our horses with such gratitude to the ‘crew’ who cared for both.

Sylvester, Colin, Willem, Liesbet

So much love and care went into all that they did for us,

and their beloved horses.

Andrew, Mr Boss 😉, and the beautiful, kind, fun loving Cassie & Greta who both know a thing or two about horses and riding.

If you know, you know, if you don’t know, you don’t need to 😉

There was exhilaration for the experts

And terror for some of us others (well not quite terror, 😜)

There was down time,

cuddle up and keep warm time

Solitary thoughts time;

for horses and people 😊

Quiet time

Moments of solitude

And times of tough walking which has it’s own stories to tell 😉

Happily after the slog down, we found a tiny bit of water for the horses

And a tiny bit of shade for very very hot riders turned hikers 😊

And as we all know, whenever there is a downhill,

there must be an uphill.

There was and it was UP hill, so no photos.

But we made it through the Kuiseb Canyon with some effort.

And continued the adventure always westwards towards the coast.

Looking ahead…..

…..anticipating what was to come….

…letting the others take the lead….

…such an amazing adventure that this was

There were diversions along the way

With the constant of my mobile bedroom;

snug, secure, and very flexible 😉

Wherever we chose, we were happy and content.

With night skies to keep us company –

no words or photos could do them justice.

On a trip as long as this, as challenging as this, with diverse a group as this, chaffing was inevitable.

Some of it literally chaffing; with the saddles, or in my case, the ground,

and some of it metaphorically as personalities rubbed this way and that.

But at the end of the day,

with a little help from our friends, 🤣

we made it to the coast,

intact, physically, mentally and socially.

And our AMAZING horses never let us down once.

Well, mine let me down,

or to be fair, Left me down as she galloped on.

I alone am responsible for the fall –

note to self ;

always remember to steer 😉

but that story is for another day 🤪

Still together, we look to reaching our destination

The Atlantic Ocean.

Champagne on offer – and why not? 🤪🥂

An amazing experience

320 Kilometres; 8 days; I guess an achievement of sorts 😂

And now time to unwind, relax, shower

and share another two days of

reminiscing and sharing before we all go

back to our ‘real worlds’

Although I often wonder which of my lives is more real.

A Privilege – that’s all I can say.

It’s taken a while to write this post.

It’s taken a while to process and absorb the day.

It’s taken the generosity of Claire Thomas Photography recording it all

for me to appreciate exactly how amazing this day was.

It began with a drive into the countryside.

An adventure in itself.

To visit another family and enjoy their remarkable hospitality.

Aykerim and her family welcomed us

with the by now, familiar and welcoming Mongolian hospitality.

(What is mine, is yours)

Even their/my horse ;

an enchanting little (they are all little)

fluffy (they are all fluffy)

aloof (they are all aloof)

nameless (they all are nameless)

and WHAT a PRIVILEGE.

A beautiful young man appeared, towering above me,

with his equally beautiful eagle on his arm.

We followed him, guided by his smile, body language and instinct.

To a world as old as time itself,

and which is slowly (and not so slowly now) fading away.

Traditionally, eagles were used to capture foxes, rabbits etc for,

apart from anything else, their skin for clothing.

With this in mind, the skins had to be whole and undamaged by the bird/s.

Therein is another part of the ‘art of the hunt’

And so we set off to see how the younger generation ‘did things’.

See A day with the King for reference.

There are no words to describe this experience, so I shall attempt to notate photos which I hope will give you a taste of the day.

(and if you want to experience it personally,

contact ClaireThomasPhotography for a private,

exclusive exposure to the nomads and their eagles.

Eagles cannot fly uphill, so they ride to the top of a hill which in itself is an achievement.
For the horse, the eagle (which is remarkably heavy)
and the rider who is balancing the bird and horse.

Once the prey (in this case a fox) has been spotted and flushed out

(there is almost always someone below – team work – even though the eagle identifies only with its handler, in this cause Baurlas,

the eagle is released.

To soar down quicker than you can blink, well almost.

And pounces on the fox. It is remarkable to watch.

The bird is so large that you cannot see the fox beneath the spread of her wings.

Speed is of the essence now as Baurlas and his horse go down the very mountainous hill as fast as they can to get to the fox before the bird damages it.

The other team member

(in this case on a motor bike 😂 the new and old world blending)

has distracted the bird with some food.

I have deliberately keep these photographs small

as I appreciate not everyone wants to see them.

Nonetheless, here is the hunter tying the fox,

(see the scratches on his hand),

while at the same time rewarding his eagle with meat.

The heavy clothes and large glove serve many purposes,

not least of which is protection.

The eagle has very long sharp talons and an equally sharp beak.

And then, of course there is the fox’s teeth and claws to contend with.

All the while, our horses wait patiently on the top of the hill.

An idea of how far away the two had gone before….

And our pleased as punch hunters return to the top again.

Where we all connect and begin the long descent back to the steppes.

And for me, at least, another wild, wonderful, experience.

Baurlas calls me alongside him – and watch what happens.

But wait, there’s more :

Pinch me……

And that was only the morning 🥰

When we got back to the home, hot lunch and time to absorb what just happened.

And the generous, lovely Baurlas again called the ‘old lady’ outside

and with a twinkle in his eye, stripped.

To reveal a very slight, very young lad under all that fur.

And then with such kindness, dressed me in his huge outfit.

Insisted I get on his horse and gave me his lovely eagle.

Such remarkable memories

Eternally grateful.

Some more images of a magical experience.

The apprentice and master

And the beautiful huntress is neatly wrapped and tied

Seemingly as happy as always for the trip ‘home’

As we farewell Aykerim and her lovely family.

A family’s generosity

After a lovely night back in Ulaankhus

we celebrated International Women’s Day at breakfast

and set off on another adventure…

And what adventure it was……

Our ‘host family’ were enchanting.

These photos give an overview of what felt,

at least for me,

home from home.

Jangalgan, with two of her children, Byekbolat (6 mth) Aydar (9 yrs)

Home from home

Boys will be boys 😂. Achbota (5 yrs) Bagdaulyet (7 yrs)

A moment captured
With thoughts a million miles away

I marvel at the equanimity she showed

as she shared her very small two roomed home with 4 of us,

4 children and her mother in law,

goats, horses, dogs, yaks, sheep.

Khayni

I was lucky enough to be able to wander off on my own and ride

wherever I chose.

Miles and miles of isolation.

with ice patches to challenge us

and strange land formations to fascinate us

And Claire Thomas generously captured moments for me to treasure.

We were fed, hot, tasty, warming.

Eating together was always special.

And then we were doubly honoured.

while in the process there is an

honouring of the life given up to sustain us.

Diligently, quietly, quickly,

the ordinariness of life….

The juxtaposition 😉

There’s a funny story about the wine.

We had carried it all the way there to share.

But no one had a corkscrew.

The attempts to open the bottle could be a comedy movie in itself,

But just like the lost and found luggage,

we managed to open the bottle
(have forgotten how 😂) and celebrated appropriately.

and so to the end of a another day, remarkable in its own way.

Tomorrow brings with it adventures,

the likes of which I could not even have dreamt about.