A new day; a new adventure

After my first culture lesson in nomadic life and that of the eagle hunters,

we returned to Ulaankhus for a night of ‘topping up’

Topping up our food stocks;

topping up our packing;

topping up on a wash;

topping up on exploring this small town.

It is largely ethnic Kazakh with about 10 000 population.

Some images of a several walks round the town.

Newly built swinging bridge which has made a big difference to the local.
Basketball so popular
Rest time

Cold, cold and crisp

I have a friend who paints ‘doors’.

I became obsessed with windows – could bore you with hundreds, but these will be enough.

Who would have thought….. Got me thinking or rather looking.

Look carefully – I walked past this window several times before I noticed it.

And that is what set me off looking with clearer eyes

Not as famous but still interesting

Get it?

A town of coming and going.

Two petrol stations; Two mosques;

Horses in backyards; Yaks wandering around;

Homes in various stages of completion;

A vibrant energetic high school;

with children stopping me regularly to chat and practice their English.

The most popular sentence? I love you 😂

We skated on the frozen river;

we breathed in the cold air and felt so alive.

We visited the local hospital to see what they had, needed, wanted.

(Dentists – anyone available?)

It was remarkabley well run and equiped.

Very interesting and they were very kind giving up time

to answer Andrew’s (Global Doctors Outreach) questions.

Our beautiful, generous translator and friend Schuak and Yerlan

opened their hearts, homes and lives to us.

Her lovely mother in law shared with me;

not just gifts (the lovely jacket I am wearing)

but also her home and life.

Photographs are rare in this part of the world.

It was a privilege to be shown hers.

I could not understand a word;

(And it did not matter)

they were wedding photographs;

beautiful; elegant;

family groups and

her husband’s tombstone/death certificate?

International Women’s Day was much celebrated here.

Gifts were exchanged;

photographs taken

and roses and chocolates given by our lovely men.

And so another magic if different day ended with a wonderful adventure to come.

Stay tuned 😉😂

An adventure like no other…..

Today saw an early early start

flying from Ulaanbaatar northwest to Ogiiy

And in case you interested,

the Mazaalai is the Gobi bear.;

a subspecies of the Brown bear and critically endangered.

(we did not see any, but then again, we were not in the Gobi)

On the other hand, what we did see, is almost impossible to describe.

But being me, I will try 🙄

Ogiiy is the regional ‘city’

It is the capital of the Bayan-Ölgii Aimag (province) of Mongolia,

located in the extreme west of the country on the banks of the Khovd River.

Populations 50 000

The airport
A slog up to a viewing point
Gave us our first images of the Altai

and if you look carefully, you will see a massive land slide

and destroyed homes.

The entire suburb had to be moved and rebuilt.

All those are destroyed homes

and then off we went to our new ‘home’

not a great distance in kilometres,

but an enormous distance in experience.

Helping along the way……

And it was so so cold, I felt so sorry for this woman, pillion and half frozen.

That is Yerlan, our amazing driver, cook, mechanic, clown,

general Great Guy.

This was to be our home for the present.

A very humble, beautiful, warm, friendly home.

Two doorways. The first into a small, shall we call vestibule.

It houses animal food, animals, and general ‘stuff’

like baby bleating goats brought in from the cold at night.

Our beautiful translator and care giver, Shuakh

Our generous hostess Minekhan;

who opened her home to a stranger, me,

who when I left, felt like family

and the famous Khairatkhan, eagle hunter, our host.

He has lived with eagles for 40 years and had about ten of his own.

(they release them back into the wild after 5 years)

The eagle (almost always female) are fed once a day

and never too much (ie kept alert to hunt)

There is a fascinating video for those that are keen to know more about

eagle hunting.

Meanwhile, we stayed with him and his wife.

and I had the BEST time.

Language was no barrier as we muddled through the day,

laughed, pointed, showed and shared.

There were goats to sort
Yaks to feed
Cows to milk
Eagle to be fed

There is dung to collect

Fires to stoke

There was patience required as the tea heated

Tea, dates, biscuits, bread and honey. 🥰

Meals to share – for some reason our faces are not as happy as our souls were 😂

But here our smiles matched our soul connection.

The ubiquitous mobile – the link to the family, the country, the world.

Down Time.

Before bed

Our rooms for the night.

Beds, a luxury.

I was honoured with sharing our hosts‘ room at their insistence.

I am sure they sleep each in their own bed usually,

but they ’snuggled’ up into thesmall stretcher bed –

honoured.

A moment captured as Khairatkhan nurtures his horse

And here is an attempt to highlight the eagle hunter,

his magnificent bird

his great horse

and his life.

Did I say HORSE?

Did I say RIDING?

Did I say EAGLE HUNTING?

Yup, well next blog will bring you that…….

😂🤣

When opportunity knocks

Anyone who knows me,

knows I love words……..

Whether using them (some would say too much 🤣)

writing them in long winded stories (some say often going nowhere 🤪)

or reading them. 📖

I did a blog somewhere beginning “words words words”

a la My Fair Lady and, 

when I went to look for it, I found, well not one, but two,

oh wait, three; (better stop looking 🙄).

See what I mean about me and Words, Words, Words.

So, if you are curious, or love words;

here are 3 ‘wordy’ posts. 😊

(Open the links to read 😉)

(Or not 🤣)

And then,

there was no time for words

only for horses and riding

and the joy they have brought an old gal. 

It all began when I had some time on my hands and wanted to visit

Mongolia

– not sure why –

you know I am a little crazy 🤪

Visiting Mongolia and  not including  horses just didn’t make sense

as in my mind that is where it, they, ‘all began’.   

 The marauding mongol tribes and all that.

Problem was, I was 64 and could not ride.

So I followed sage advice and settled for a ride in Margaret River –

my reckoning being it too began with an M ,

Mongolia, Margaret River.   

A start. – what could go wrong?

Well nothing,

as it transpired,

it was magical,

painful yes,

but magical.   

 https://leepowrie.com/2017/11/01/margaret-river-harmony/

Be bold and have a read – the comparison will be interesting 🤣

And with that, began the most amazing few years of learning,

exploring, expanding my world in ways I could never have dreamt of.   

And Mongolia receded into the back of my mind,

neither a need nor desire as life had me busy.

And now? 

 I hear you ask….

What are you on about –

words words words leading us nowhere……..

Well, what if I said these words were leading me

off the grid

I invite you to join me in spirit,

with a promise to share as much of my next adventure

as I can on my return to ‘the grid’ 

Life is full of surprises.   

All you have to do is keep your heart open,

your eyes looking ahead and a smile on your dial,

even in the tough times. 

And so it is that through mutual dear friends,

Mandy & Pat Retzlaff

(@Mozambique Horse Trails; 104 Horses – do read it)

I was connected with a remarkable woman,

Claire Thomas by name.    

Bold, brave, fascinating,

documenting stories, both painful and joyous

to challenge or enchant us.    

This is Claire Thomas…… 

Open the link and be blown away as I was.

Who knows what will happen if you do 😉

She has invited me to join her

and I am confident I shall be both challenged and enchanted.   

And where are we going?   

To Mongolia,

to the Altai Mountains,

via Beijing, Ulambataar….

Add to that the flight from

Melbourne to Biejing

You can see it is a Long Way.

The Altai Mountains are in the north west of Mongolia and the Britanica states :

The Altai mountains are a complex system extending approx. 2000km from the Gobi Desert, through the Western Siberian Plain, through China, Mongolia, Russia and Kazakhstan.

The name comes from Turkic-Mongolian  Altan meaning Golden.

Okay, enough words about the geography.

How about the weather?   

Right now in Melbourne we are sweltering in temperatures of 39-40 ‘C.  

Yes Celsius.

We are living in semi darkness trying to keep the heat/light out.

The kids (and dog) have moved into the living room –

it being marginally cooler than their back room.

img_0130-1

And ME?

I am navigating the thought of -23’ Celsius –

yup, that Is Minus!!!!!

The mind is baulking at having to think of such cold weather

when we can barely move from the heat…….

But navigate I must…..

Thankfully not the way to UB (Ulambataar)

Air China will do that,

but round the idea of cold, cold, cold.   

Sharing accommodation, (which is common when I travel), is one thing –

the added dimension of such cold makes me wonder if we will be sharing body heat too 😉 if you get what I mean.

So I found a thermorest I last used in 2001 in Nepal (long before blogging 😂) ; does it still work, am I too old to sleep on it ;

will it keep some of the cold off?

So, just like trial packing, I have done a few trial sleeps. 😉

Seems okay. 🥰

And now to the “BIG REVEAL”

I am still pinching myself at this opportunity.

I am not going on a tourist trip to Mongolia,

where we ride around on ‘tourist horses’

seeing the ‘tourist’ things.   

That would be great, I have no doubt,

but often leaves one feeling a little like a voyeur,

even a little patronising. 

 I will be going with Claire Thomas

and two others.   

We are staying in the homes of Claire’s friends.

We are following the eagle hunters.   

Bold and so so ‘from another era’
Alankush, father & Arkalak, his 12 yr old son, following in his father’s footsteps.
Carrying their eagles while riding in the Altai mountains.
26 yr old Serik Gingsbek shows off his golden eagle.

We are eating, drinking, laughing, sharing, and learning from them.

Seik Gisbek, an eagle hunter,
drinking tea while visiting Alankush.

Eagle Hunter Alankush in his home.
Dinar, wife of an eagle hunter milks her cow
Food preparation is a never ending occupation.

In return, Claire is filming their stories.  

For two reasons;

to help maintain their traditions

and

to help fund them for the future.  

Because we all know,

we have changed the world

and what sustained rural communities for centuries

no longer does. 

Which raises the question of where our responsibility lies…..

One of their urgent desires is to educate their children.

Which means sending them away to schools,

which means funding them….

Anyone interested in supporting them?

Let me know.

All the Beautiful photographs belong to Claire Thomas.

Do yourself a favour and explore her website.

Opportunity knocked.

I took it and will keep you posted.

Till next time adieu

I leave shortly.