A Privilege – that’s all I can say.

It’s taken a while to write this post.

It’s taken a while to process and absorb the day.

It’s taken the generosity of Claire Thomas Photography recording it all

for me to appreciate exactly how amazing this day was.

It began with a drive into the countryside.

An adventure in itself.

To visit another family and enjoy their remarkable hospitality.

Aykerim and her family welcomed us

with the by now, familiar and welcoming Mongolian hospitality.

(What is mine, is yours)

Even their/my horse ;

an enchanting little (they are all little)

fluffy (they are all fluffy)

aloof (they are all aloof)

nameless (they all are nameless)

and WHAT a PRIVILEGE.

A beautiful young man appeared, towering above me,

with his equally beautiful eagle on his arm.

We followed him, guided by his smile, body language and instinct.

To a world as old as time itself,

and which is slowly (and not so slowly now) fading away.

Traditionally, eagles were used to capture foxes, rabbits etc for,

apart from anything else, their skin for clothing.

With this in mind, the skins had to be whole and undamaged by the bird/s.

Therein is another part of the ‘art of the hunt’

And so we set off to see how the younger generation ‘did things’.

See A day with the King for reference.

There are no words to describe this experience, so I shall attempt to notate photos which I hope will give you a taste of the day.

(and if you want to experience it personally,

contact ClaireThomasPhotography for a private,

exclusive exposure to the nomads and their eagles.

Eagles cannot fly uphill, so they ride to the top of a hill which in itself is an achievement.
For the horse, the eagle (which is remarkably heavy)
and the rider who is balancing the bird and horse.

Once the prey (in this case a fox) has been spotted and flushed out

(there is almost always someone below – team work – even though the eagle identifies only with its handler, in this cause Baurlas,

the eagle is released.

To soar down quicker than you can blink, well almost.

And pounces on the fox. It is remarkable to watch.

The bird is so large that you cannot see the fox beneath the spread of her wings.

Speed is of the essence now as Baurlas and his horse go down the very mountainous hill as fast as they can to get to the fox before the bird damages it.

The other team member

(in this case on a motor bike 😂 the new and old world blending)

has distracted the bird with some food.

I have deliberately keep these photographs small

as I appreciate not everyone wants to see them.

Nonetheless, here is the hunter tying the fox,

(see the scratches on his hand),

while at the same time rewarding his eagle with meat.

The heavy clothes and large glove serve many purposes,

not least of which is protection.

The eagle has very long sharp talons and an equally sharp beak.

And then, of course there is the fox’s teeth and claws to contend with.

All the while, our horses wait patiently on the top of the hill.

An idea of how far away the two had gone before….

And our pleased as punch hunters return to the top again.

Where we all connect and begin the long descent back to the steppes.

And for me, at least, another wild, wonderful, experience.

Baurlas calls me alongside him – and watch what happens.

But wait, there’s more :

Pinch me……

And that was only the morning 🥰

When we got back to the home, hot lunch and time to absorb what just happened.

And the generous, lovely Baurlas again called the ‘old lady’ outside

and with a twinkle in his eye, stripped.

To reveal a very slight, very young lad under all that fur.

And then with such kindness, dressed me in his huge outfit.

Insisted I get on his horse and gave me his lovely eagle.

Such remarkable memories

Eternally grateful.

Some more images of a magical experience.

The apprentice and master

And the beautiful huntress is neatly wrapped and tied

Seemingly as happy as always for the trip ‘home’

As we farewell Aykerim and her lovely family.

A day with the King: Khairatkhan

The morning after the night before

saw me pottering on one of the horses.

My FIRST ride

on the famous Mongolian pony.

Like nothing I could have imagined.

A few more self indulgent moments before the Real Thing.

Like the prelude to the Real Performance.

Self Indulgence, I know 😂

and one more for the moment …..

my first crossing of the ice – cautious – both of us.

No need for the helmet – rather for a head warmer.

AND THEN THE AWE INSPIRING PRIVILEGE

of riding with the EAGLE HUNTER HIMSELF

Khairatkhan and his beautiful ‘girl’

We rode with him to the top of the mountain,

watching and waiting for a fox –

Waiting and…..
……watching

Interestingly, eagles cannot fly uphill,

they climb up hills.

But oh can they soar downhill.

Oh do they have amazing eye sight.

Oh does the combination make them powerful hunters.

There is patience needed.

There are good eyes needed.

There is speed needed.

There is also teamwork needed.

Khairatkhan and his eagle.

Support down below.

A reliable solid horse

The aim is to get an undamaged fox skin,

which means getting to the capture before the eagle begins damaging this fox.

There is so much patience required.

Wanting to hunt isn’t the same as hunting.

There has to be something to hunt.

And not today.

So Khairatkhan showed us how he trains her.

Fascinating in itself.

The eagle gets fed daily, but never much.

This is to keep her alert and ready to hunt.

There is cantering to ensure balance between rider, eagle and horse is solid.

And then I was lucky enough to have some fun time.

One on one and such a privilege.

And a self indulgent slide show ….. of you know who 😉

And so an amazing experience ends….

Little did I know what was still to come ;

No not steak knives 🤣.

A farewell to our lovely hosts;

a drive back to Ulaankhus

a delicious meal and beds.

Little did I know there was

SO MUCH MORE TO COME.

Tsagaan Sar: New Year: Traditions.

Hope, Regrets, Pain, Joy,

Past and Future

It seems wherever I have travelled to temples, shrines, synagogues, churches, caves, cathedrals, the search and teachings are pretty much universal.

Humility, Hope, Grace, Acceptance, Community.

And today was another privilege and expansion of experience

As Manal and Bolormaa invited us to join them on their

annual New Year visit to The Temple.

Fascinating to learn how the temples survived the soviet era, or of course, in many cases did not, and were resurrected subsequently.

The detail in the curtain

The skill in the carvings

The colours against the backdrop

The sense of symmetry

The deceptive sense of solitude

Undone as we walked through the curtain

to a world of noise, prayer, movement, colour,

and at the same time strange solitude

as everyone was

focussed inwards

Sensory overload would be one way of describing this morning.

Awe, Voyeuristic, Intrusive, Communal, Humbled

are all words or rather feelings that came to me

as I joined in the procession sometimes on my own,

sometimes alongside a fellow traveller,

of the spiritual or literal kind.

I will leave some images here,

perhaps through them, simple as they are,

you too could join me on this privileged journey.

Manal, Bolormaa & Erdenezuut
Father & son : a moment captured

And just to remind me of the strangeness of our ‘New World’

These photos

Walking up to the temple, a Mercedes Benz pulled up;

and an elegant man got out, put his monk robes on and walked up

and into the temple.

And the privilege of this morning did not end there.

We did not go with the family to the Shaman – it was an overnight trip.

But we were shown their visit,

for anyone interested.

A glimpse into the Mongolian world.

The Sharman and his home

Supplication

Mongolian gold, faith, hopes and life

and that was just the morning!!!

The afternoon visits are a whole story in themselves.

Watch this space……