A Privilege – that’s all I can say.

It’s taken a while to write this post.

It’s taken a while to process and absorb the day.

It’s taken the generosity of Claire Thomas Photography recording it all

for me to appreciate exactly how amazing this day was.

It began with a drive into the countryside.

An adventure in itself.

To visit another family and enjoy their remarkable hospitality.

Aykerim and her family welcomed us

with the by now, familiar and welcoming Mongolian hospitality.

(What is mine, is yours)

Even their/my horse ;

an enchanting little (they are all little)

fluffy (they are all fluffy)

aloof (they are all aloof)

nameless (they all are nameless)

and WHAT a PRIVILEGE.

A beautiful young man appeared, towering above me,

with his equally beautiful eagle on his arm.

We followed him, guided by his smile, body language and instinct.

To a world as old as time itself,

and which is slowly (and not so slowly now) fading away.

Traditionally, eagles were used to capture foxes, rabbits etc for,

apart from anything else, their skin for clothing.

With this in mind, the skins had to be whole and undamaged by the bird/s.

Therein is another part of the ‘art of the hunt’

And so we set off to see how the younger generation ‘did things’.

See A day with the King for reference.

There are no words to describe this experience, so I shall attempt to notate photos which I hope will give you a taste of the day.

(and if you want to experience it personally,

contact ClaireThomasPhotography for a private,

exclusive exposure to the nomads and their eagles.

Eagles cannot fly uphill, so they ride to the top of a hill which in itself is an achievement.
For the horse, the eagle (which is remarkably heavy)
and the rider who is balancing the bird and horse.

Once the prey (in this case a fox) has been spotted and flushed out

(there is almost always someone below – team work – even though the eagle identifies only with its handler, in this cause Baurlas,

the eagle is released.

To soar down quicker than you can blink, well almost.

And pounces on the fox. It is remarkable to watch.

The bird is so large that you cannot see the fox beneath the spread of her wings.

Speed is of the essence now as Baurlas and his horse go down the very mountainous hill as fast as they can to get to the fox before the bird damages it.

The other team member

(in this case on a motor bike 😂 the new and old world blending)

has distracted the bird with some food.

I have deliberately keep these photographs small

as I appreciate not everyone wants to see them.

Nonetheless, here is the hunter tying the fox,

(see the scratches on his hand),

while at the same time rewarding his eagle with meat.

The heavy clothes and large glove serve many purposes,

not least of which is protection.

The eagle has very long sharp talons and an equally sharp beak.

And then, of course there is the fox’s teeth and claws to contend with.

All the while, our horses wait patiently on the top of the hill.

An idea of how far away the two had gone before….

And our pleased as punch hunters return to the top again.

Where we all connect and begin the long descent back to the steppes.

And for me, at least, another wild, wonderful, experience.

Baurlas calls me alongside him – and watch what happens.

But wait, there’s more :

Pinch me……

And that was only the morning 🥰

When we got back to the home, hot lunch and time to absorb what just happened.

And the generous, lovely Baurlas again called the ‘old lady’ outside

and with a twinkle in his eye, stripped.

To reveal a very slight, very young lad under all that fur.

And then with such kindness, dressed me in his huge outfit.

Insisted I get on his horse and gave me his lovely eagle.

Such remarkable memories

Eternally grateful.

Some more images of a magical experience.

The apprentice and master

And the beautiful huntress is neatly wrapped and tied

Seemingly as happy as always for the trip ‘home’

As we farewell Aykerim and her lovely family.

A Desert

The oldest desert in the world, so the scientists say, more than 500 million years old in fact.   The Namib (open space) is just that – so open it forces your heart to expand and your soul to lift and time to stand still.     So at times as we sat and absorbed the expanse, the silence, the colour, the feel, the vastness it felt as though time too, had stopped.

Was this where time began?

Or is these where time has ended?

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Sandwich Harbour

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This was once, a home

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Just because…..

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We were not alone – Springbok looking at us looking at him

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Space

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wherever we looked

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time to recapture

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or capture

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ever changing and always staying the same

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a moment in time

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so fortunate to see

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and he showed off happily

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There was huge

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effort involved

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in climbing

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the dunes

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whether old

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or young

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but the views rewarded us

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and of course we had to go down too….

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but who is complaining

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The never ending beauty of the dunes

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Difficult to assess the steepness of the dune as we drop down – with the engine switched off you hear the roar of the sand – as if from the bowels of the earth – AMAZING

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These rather ordinary videos will give you an idea of the scale of the place

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some welcome sustenance after the walks

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and this is what happens when you don’t time the tide correctly !!!!!

photos courtesy of the Powrie girls and Erika de Jäger

A Country…..

…in the south west corner of Africa.     Namibia gained independence only in 1990 South Africans have always felt a close affinity to what was previously called South West Africa with many of our young men spending time in the military in this part of the world.

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For much of my youth large parts of the country were ‘out of bounds’ because of the fighting ‘up north’ as we used to say.

Happily now, we are free to explore – and that is precisely what we did recently.

Well actually we only explored a little of the country – 10 days is not enough to do it justice.   Almost the size of South Africa, with a population of 2.5mill (S African has approx 60mill) it is a deliciously sparsely populated so that it is possible to ‘escape the madding crowd’ and absorb the light and air unhindered.

We began in Walvis Bay, with time spent on the water sharing our boat with friends

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The light and mood in the bay is extraordinary – enjoy20170807 - ET2_24

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The Salt Pans are also amazing – this salt pan currently supplies South Africa with 90% of it’s salt; concentrated salt from seawater with the aid of evaporation.    This salt pan also forms part of Southern Africa’s single most important coastal wetland for migratory birds.

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and when we thought we had seen such beauty nothing could compare, we visited Sandwich Harbour…… which deserves it’s own page.

(photos courtesy of the ‘Powrie girls’ and Erika De Jager)