and so, still marveling at the amazing sardines we had seen, we wandered further, alone, no one in sight, but a dot in the ocean. Our eyes adapted, finding it hard to comprehend what they saw.
A bull in the ocean, bobbing up and down, accompanied by a young man who bobbed with him. Surely not.
But so it was. And the bull (turned out to be an ox :)) swam with his master deep in the ocean for at least ten minutes as we sat and watched, mesmerized.
They then came closer, into shallow water and with tender care they scrubbed the beasts flanks, chest, belly. Again we were witness to a ritual that surely goes back to biblical times.
The bond between boy and beast was, even from our distant position, almost palpable. The one relied on the other, – for what? transport, food, strength, support.
Only they will know, if they even think about it.
But there they were, together in a ritual of cleaning, healing and I am sure bonding.
As we learnt later, a weekly ritual, which we by chance, and gratefully were privileged to witness, while standing apart.
Wondering what the next adventure would be, I put myself into the care of dear dear friends (whose value to me is far greater than the riches that created the land they now call home) and waited to see where that led.
Citadels, landscapes, buildings, roads, birds, people beyond expectation and that was only day one 🙂
Early today we breakfasted, loaded our picnic, passports, bathers (swimming costumes). smiles, sense of adventure and headed to Oman – Sohar to be exact.
An hour’s easy drive from Al Ain. A very defined custom’s border post; no photography, stand in line, and the excitement of a stamp in my passport, Oman 🙂 (No EU freedom of movement here.) And finally now Sultans rule, not Sheikhs (I learn something new every hour here) and immediately the landscape has changed.
Mountains, now. More rugged, more austere, more “rubbish”as my father and his mountaineer friends used to refer to this kind of rock ; not the sort of stone that draws climbers into its orbit, but rather hastens them in the opposite direction.
Ruggedand remoteslightly wildold and modernOminousthey formed such barriers
Life here must have been unbearably tough, and in many areas, I am sure still. Reading, as I am, Rags to Riches, the story of Dubai/Abi Dubai one can only marvel at the speed with which this change has occurred.
to villages along the waylook outsmosques (different shapes from Al Aincolours, shadowsguarding everythingthese mountains are beautiful in an austere way
A special stop at Sohar for a picnic tea and biscuits, lovingly offered by Mick,; saw a middle aged man beautifully clad in white quietly ‘join’ us.
He sat on a bench right behind us, close enough in an empty vastness to be ‘part of our space’ and since there was a vast area with seating to chose from, I am guessing his solitude was beginning to weary him.
And he sat,
silently,
hands on knees,
looking ahead and studiously avoiding any visual contact with us.
It was a Saturday, a holy day and the streets were still deserted.
So in a country where kings have their way, falconry ( like horse breeding) can be indulged whatever the cost.
Did I mention that camel racing is making a come back with 4 wheel drive vehicles easily accessible as a winning prize in local races.
Did I mention that Annie teaching English to young policemen one day enquires why one young man was late for class. His response was the waving of car keys at her – he had been racing falcons at dawn and won a car.
This became the topic then for the English lesson and phones came out showing her various falcons and camels when she suddenly did a double take – is that a lion? Sure enough, that photo wasn’t a bird or camel but lion cub!!! A pet. Next a cheetah and I forget the third animal (bear?)
But the falcons, I hear you cry.
Yes there was one, one bird and four people standing around it asking questions of the handler. I could not believe my ears, the handler was South African as were the three strangers collected around her!!!!! Strange world.
There is a Huge falcon research centre on Al Ain and this young lady had always had a passion for birds. She studied animal husbandry at Potch University and finally found herself working here – a dream job – a dream come true 😃. She’s off shortly to Scotland to look for breeding birds.
This bird was a female, a little stressed at times as she overheated and was sprayed with water, bigger than the male as she needs to incubate eggs and he needs agility to hunt for two.
She has an enormous crop and I was invited to ‘poke my finger in her chest and feel’
Goodness me, I thought my finger would come out her back!!!! The strangest sensation but of course makes perfect sense for storage of you think about the size of the prey relative to her size.
I was proudly advised that a ladies only falconry club was starting. A two week course in November – Free and falcons provided. I can see another adventure looming
So alert So proudMatching gazes Each time they seem to move in harmonyQuite relaxedAnd comfortable with my handler Although if I get hot …. I get agitated And settle when cooled off with water The male ( and Annie 😜)
Brave New World of Blogging 