I am travelling in luxury a 8 seater Nissan (or maybe Toyota ) something – just me and when we arrived at the game park up went the roof, into the back went I and stood up feeling like the pope 😳 – able to look all around without the sun burning my head or the rain destroying my hairdo 😀😀
We left Nairobi this morning and arrived at lake Nakuru for lunch – an extravagant luxury resort looking down on the lake – my bathroom as big as my lounge at home snd the bedroom – well almost the size of my house 😂😂😂
As to game – we go back to that ‘benchmark’ I referred to earlier. If like me you were lucky enough to ‘cut your teeth’ in the delta, Zim and mkuze etc in the 70’s you have a different benchmark from many :
We have seen good birds, zebras by the hundreds, Impala too – a lovely rich orange colour when compared to ‘ours’; Thomsons gazelle ( also deep orange) waterbuck; huge trios of vervet monkeys, Colobus monkeys and hundreds and hundreds of buffalo.
I am told there are both black and white rhino here. They have obviously learnt to keep well out of view of poachers ( and everyone else) so for the moment I must take ‘their’ word for the presence of rhino
I remember when we used to see so many rhino we stopped looking at them and a nagging thought would not leave me today couldn’t
‘would a time come for zebra
or buffalo when we say the same? ‘
is the final resting place for more than 250,000 victims of the Genocide against the Tutsi in Rwanda.
It honours the memory of the more than one million Rwandans killed in 1994 through education and peace-building.
I wasn’t sure about visiting this centre – I have read quite a bit about this particular genocide and remember it well – would this be a ‘token gesture kind of place’ or so harrowing I would need space – lots of it to find equilibrium again.
It was neither – it was a remarkable place which honours those so brutally murdered and does so much more – it puts it into a context.
It does an excellent job about educating – about how incremental mind changes, subtle gossip and creation of envy can change neighbours into enemies.
“It is a crime against humanity to be
accused of being born ”
It looks at genocides throughout recent times :
– The Armenian 75% of those in Ottoman Empire murdered
– The Hereros 80% of population murdered
– The Pol Pot in Cambodia 25% of its population killed
– The Holocaust killed 6 million Jews (about 2/3 of Jewish population in Europe) and 5 million non Jews
– The Muslim killings in Bosnia Herzegovina has disputed figures but it is believed 200,000 people were killed, 12,000 of them children, up to 50,000 women were raped, and 2.2 million were forced to flee their homes.
– and the rest
And doubtless as our present becomes history more will be added – Syria? Iraq?
Who knows
The word genocide is a fairly recent addition to our language:
Geno=Greek race/tribe Cide=Latin killing
But the act can be traced back to the Old Testament.
The centre has lovely gardens where contemplation is possible and while I spent three hours there I noted a large school group ; not just on a school excursion as we know them – a day out of school and a bit of fun . Rather an intense visit which included a long session in the Peace Room of interactive discussion. There were guides talking to them through each area and conversation appeared two way and deep.
2 mill dead in two months and it is believed that the number of foreign troops used to evacuate foreign workers could have stopped the attacks which they knew were planned. Communal guilt?
Gacaca (grass) courts were set up throughout the country post the killings – these were not ‘kangaroo’ courts but serious attempts to seek the truth and sentences ranged from prison to community work – those who found it possible to confess and asked forgiveness of relevant victims were generally given community work as ‘punishment’ 12000 courts in 10 years did much to bring some kind of resolution and these courts have been called the finest post conflict justice courts in the world – I wonder how many of us had heard of them?
Rwandans may be defined by their history in others minds but they are working through education to ensure it never happens again – (as can be seen by the two posters I copied.).
They also seem to know that without forgiveness moving forward is not possible
The gardens – the elephant with the mobile phone to keep communication openEnter a caption
This statement for me is hopeThe posters referred to – actually a different site
10 Belgium soldiers murdered here during this timeBeautiful memorial to them
Ankole cattleCrossing the NileRoadside food – Rolex – delicious
24/09/2016
Uganda- 40 mill landlocked people with Kenya, Sudan, Ethiopia, DRC, Rwanda and Tanzania as neighbours.
Entebbe, on the shore of lake Victoria – the largest freshwater lake in the world and the source of the Nile river – is a bustling thriving city with a pulsing energy that you can’t ignore – colour, noise, apparent chaos – and yet not
Burra burras, cars and pedestrians all use the road as if it’s theirs – but there is, if one observes carefully, a respect of each other and a gracious courtesy that is quite different from the gritted teeth courtesy I’ve seen in other places.
Travelling as I am with two serious photographers my trusty iPhone has stayed well tucked away – I shall hopefully tag us in to great photos shortly
Back to Uganda – depends what eyes you use: ‘western eyes ‘ may see chaos, danger, poverty, deprivation, hard labour, hopeless…
The Ugandan sees opportunity, community, dignity, pride.
Schooling accessible to everyone and they are all taught their recent unhappy history
Medical services are available throughout the country
I’m told extreme poverty is almost non existent ,
AIDS treatment Gov sponsored so numbers decreasing rapidly :
Serious crime very low – rape minimum. sentence is life; death sentence is common
Illegal Possession of a gun is also a life sentence – so no one will touch them even if they find one in the street 😀
Subsistence farming
“We have peace in our hearts” is how one Ugandan “friend” described it to me
So if I haven’t bored you yet I’ll post about our 13 hour road trip